Rhum Agricole--Not Your Fathers Rum

A Primer

Rhum Agricole or Agricultural Rum--the top of the rum hierarchy-is to commercial rums as a Big Mac is to a prime Porterhouse Steak. Rhum Agricole is the highest expression of the rum makers craft and it is subject to the same regulatory oversight as Cognac, Champagne and French wines -- the Appellation d’Origine Controlee. These regulations proscribe the geographical production area, cropping limitations, production methods and the specific language used on labels. All these steps conspire to produce a quality and consistent product protecting both producer and consumer.

The regulations require that for rum to be labeled “Agricole” it be produced in the French Caribbean or on French Islands in the Indian Ocean. What really separates this Rhum from all of the other rums is the base material. Unlike the vast majority of rum produced in the world, and it is an international spirit, produced from fermented and distilled molasses, Rhum Agricole is made from fermented and distilled sugar cane juice. Because cane juice is perishable it precludes fermenting a base material that was produced somewhere other than in close proximity to the distillery. For example, Rhum Agricole could not be made in Martinique from cane juice produced in Brazil. With cane juices that are locally produced Rhum producers create a more distinctive Rhum that reflecting the type of cane juice used, and the area that produced it. This is similar to concept of “terrior” used by French winemakers to describe the special characteristics that the combined vineyard, grape variety and winemaking practices bring to a specific type of wine.

Another major point of differentiation between Rhum Agricole and industrially produced rum is the process of distillation. The AOC regulations for Agricole prohibit secondary distillation, define the characteristics of the still and mandate the final level of alcohol exiting the still in order for the spirit to qualify as Rhum Agricole. The goal of defining these factors is to achieve a “typicite” and consistency of product. Within these parameters, individual producers are able to produce rhums of identifiable style and character, much like any Cognac, Whisky or Grappa producer does.

The last major factor going into the production of this unique product is aging. The most basic type of Martinique Rhum is white rhum. Like all Agricole products, White Rhum is bottled at 80 proof; it is aged in oak casks for a period of not more than three months and, of course, should have no color. Rhum Martinique "élevé sous bois" is the next step up the quality ladder. “Eleve sous bois” loosely translated means raised in wood, in this case oak barrels. At this level of quality, the time spent in oak is at least twelve uninterrupted months and less than three years. Another important requirement for Rhum to achieve this designation is that the Rhum in question must have “volatile elements” of at least 250 grams per hectoliter of alcohol. This insures the quality of the aroma and bouquet of the Rhum. The apex of the quality pyramid of Rhum Agricole is Rhum Agricole "vieux". Vieux Rhum needs to be aged for a minimum of three years in oak barrels that have a capacity less than 625 liters (165 gallons). This Rhum must possess those same “volatile elements” at a minimum of 325 grams per hectoliter of alcohol. This regimen insures that as you go up the ladder of quality the breed, finesse and aromatic complexity of the Rhum increases.

By its very nature, Rhum Agricole is an artisanal and limited product. Sugarcane, like any agricultural crop has a limited time when it is optimally ripe. This and the handmade nature of the Rhum make decisions and techniques made by the producer the most important factors in determining the final characteristics and quality of the finished Rum. This said there are only seven distillers of Martinique Rhum making Rhum Agricole a rare and somewhat pricey drink. However, when compared to the similar quality level Cognac or Armagnac this Rhum is a bargain. Some of the most notable producers to look out for include Neisson, La Favorite, and Depaz. Therefore, as you consider what to have after the next feast you prepare consider Rhum Agricole as a postprandial instead of that Cognac or Whisky you usually have.